Yarn and fabric construction



A NI I Patented May 2, 1939 PATENT OFFICE 2,156,935 I I YARN AND FABRICCONSTRUCTION Rene Bolivet, Hazleton, Pa., and John Haesler, Teaneck, N.J., assignors to Duplan Silk Corporation, New York, N. Y., a corporationof Delaware :Drawing. Application January 6, 1938,

S'erial N0. 183,626

.10 Claims. (Cl. 57-140) The present invention relates to novel yarn andfabric constructions and particularly relates to yarn and fabricconstructions'which include the use of synthetic yarn or rayonmaterials.

It is among the objects of the presentinvention to provide an improvedyarn, and fabric woven thereof, which fabric will have enhanced textureand will also be improved in other qualities.

during the course of the following specification.

In accomplishing the 'above objects according to one embodiment'of thepresent invention, it will be found most satisfactory'to combine low,medium and high twist'artificial silk or rayon yarnsfpreferab'lyof""viscose or .cuprammonium rayon and/or cellulose acetate, each of theends preferably being composed of between 10 and 250 filaments twistedtogether with a zero or relatively low twist. Sometimes spun yarns ofvisco'se or cuprammoniurn rayon, silk or cellulose acetate, or blendsthereof may also be included.

A's-a general: rule,'it is desirable to combine together-the high twist,and the low twist yarns Q by a'relativlylow united twisting, which maybe in the same direction as the twist on each end then the combined yarnis united with a third end having amedium twist.

The final yarn then may be utilized for either the warp or the fillingof afabric or both; and it preferably is utilized in either warp orfilling or both, with a spacing of about 20 to 60 ends per inch. v, v

It has been found particularly effective to 7 combine two endsofcellulosic rayon, a synthetic fibre derived from cellulose xanthate,cellulose nitrate or cupra ami'nonium cellulose, and at least one endpreferably of low twist composed of the cellulose acetate yarn. g

As a general rule,the 'low'twist cellulose acetate yarn having a numberof turns varying from to may be combined with a relatively high twistcellulosic rayon yarn having a twist of 35 to 65 turns in the samedirection as the cellulose acetate yarn, the united twisting of thecellulosic rayon and the cellulose acetate varying from 2 to 25 turns.

Usually, it is desirable that each end of cellulose acetate yarn bebetween 40 to 300 denier and have between and 250 filaments, althoughseveral different ends may be employed instead of one cellulose acetateend.

This combined or united yarn is then combined with a third endpreferably having a twist between 10 and 35 turns preferably in the sameOther objects will be obvious or will follow I united yarn is thencombined witha 100 denier,

direction as the united twisting or in the same direction as either ofthe individual yarns previously combined and this third yarn may eitherbe a cellulose acetate silk or more preferably a celluloslc rayon. r c w5 Preferably, this third yarn also contains from 10 to 250 filaments perend.

To give several specific examples of various yarn and fabricconstructions, a warp yarn may be formed by twisting at five turnsright, a,150 denier, 60 filament viscose rayon crepe having a twist of45,turns .right with a 100 denier, ,28 filament. cellulose acetate yarnof 1% turns right twist, the united twist being 5 turns right. vThis 28filament cellulose acetate yarn having a twist of turns right, theunited twisting being- 15 turns right. This will give the desiredeffectiof having low twist, medium twist and high twist yarns combinedin a single end with the low twist and the high twist being firstcombined and then together combined with a medium twist. This yarn may.then be used. for the warp of the filling or both, the spacing in thewarp or filling preferably being between 30 to ends per inch. A

Any suitable weave may be utilized such as a tafieta weave, if. desired.

As another example, which is not as preferred as the example just given,a 75 denier, 30 filament viscose rayon yarn of turns right twist iscombined with two 100 denier ends of a 28.

' filament, 1% turn right twist cellulose acetate yarn, the unitedtwisting being 5 turns right. I

Then, this yarn is combined by twisting 15 -3 turns right with a '75denier, 30 filament rayon yarn having 55 turns left which will givethedesired effect of having a low twist and two high twist yarnsCombined in a single end with the low twist yarn and one high twist yarnbeing first combined and then together combined with another high twistyarn.

This yarn, as above stated, may be used for both warp or filling with aspacing of between 30 to 40 ends per inch in either the warp or filling.

As athird example, a 150 denier, filament, 45 turn right twist viscoserayon yarn may be combined by five turns right with a denier, 28filament, 1%; turns cellulose acetate yarn, which then is combined witha 100 denier, 28 filament, 40 turn left cellulose acetate yarn by aunited twisting of 15 turns-right.

This yarn which is not as preferred as the by twisting together a 150.-denier, 60 filament, 45

,40 filament, 2 /2 right twist viscose rayon yarn with 100 denier, turnright cellulose acetate yarn V by the united twist of 12 turns right.

This yarn is then combined with a 100 denier, 40 filament 2% turn rightcellulose acetate yarn by a united twist of 7 turns left.

The resultant yarn may be used as awarp or filling or both.

2o Although,- it is preferred that the individual components be singleyarns, it is obvious that the construction also applied to yarns inwhich one on more of the three components is a plied yarn.

If desired, the three ends doubled or undoubled may all be composed ofcellulosic rayon, but generally, one or two ends should be formed ofcellulose acetate. Howevenit is usually preferred to have the final yarnconsist of a high twist and a low twist united together first and thencombined witha medium twist end, which yarn is used for'either the warpor filling or both. i g The fabric woven of these yarns will haveenhanced texture,, a hard, crisp feeling and will also be improved inother fabric qualities. Although the cellulose acetate component ispreferably not highly twisted, it is possible in certain instances togive it a high twist of the order 25 to 100 turns per inch. Zero twistyarns may also be used in lieu of low twist yarns.

By. the expression rayon utilized in the accompanying claims, isincluded ,all synthetic fibers .or artificial silk fibers, specifictypes of rayon being viscose rayon, cuprammonium rayon, nitrate rayoncelluloseacetate, cellulose ether, and so forth.

It is apparent that the specificillustrationsshown above have been givenby way of illustration and not by way of limitation and that thestructures above described are subject to wide [variation andmodification without departing from the scope or intent of theinvention, all of which variations and modificationsare to be includedwithin the scope of the present invention. what is claimed is:

- 1. A yarn construction comprising three intertwisted strands of asynthetic filament or rayon yarn of substantially difi'erent twist, oneof said strands being initiallytwisted between about 0 and 15 turns,another being twistedbetween about 15 and 35 turns and the third beingtwisted between about35 to '75 turns and the united twisting beingbetween and 25 turns.

2. A yarn construction formed by united twisting of at least three endseach consisting of from to 250 filaments of a synthetic filament orrayon material, at least one end consisting of cellulose ester and atleast another end consisting of cellulosic rayon, at least two of' saidends each having a substantial difference in twist and said unitedtwisting one of said ends and another of said ends.

being less than the twist of reater than the .twist of 3. A yarnconstruction formed by united twist-" ing of-at least three ends eachconsisting of from 10 to 250 filaments of a synthetic filament or rayonmaterial, at least one end consisting of cellulose ester and at leastanother end consisting of cellulosic rayon, at least two of said endseach having a substantial difference in twist and said united twistingbeing less than the twist of one ofsaid ends and greater than the twistof another of. said ends, said ends and unitedtwisting being all twistedin the same direction.

4. A yarn construction formedby united twistingof at least three endseachconsisting of from 10 to 250 filaments of a synthetic filamentorrayon. material, at least one end consisting of cel-' lulose ester andat least another end consisting.

of ceilulosic rayon, at least two of said ends each having a substantialdifference in twist and said united twisting being less than the twistof one of said ends and greater than the twist of another of said ends.the

ends having the lowest twist being first combined by united twisting andthe-combined strand being then united with the strand having anintermediate twist.

5. A yarn construction formed by united twisting 0. at least three endseach consisting of from 10 to 250 filaments of a. synthetic filament orrayon materiaLat least one end consisting of cellulose ester and atleast another. end. consisting an end of a 150 denier,

greater than the twist- 60 filament, right turn crepe rayon combined by5 turns right with another end of a 100 denier, 28 filament, 1 V rightturn cellulose acetate, which combination in turn is combined with a 100denier -28 filament, 28 right turn cellulose acetate end by 15 rightturns of united twisting.

. 7. A crisp fabric woven at least in -substan-- tial part of the yarnof claim 1 in the warp.

-8. A crisp fabric woven at least in substantial part of the yarn ofclaim 1 in the filling- 9. A crisp fabric woven at least in substantialpart of the yarn of claim 2. I

'10. A crisp fabric woven at least in substantial part of the yarn ofclaim 6.

BOUVET.

JOHIIJ' HAESLER.

